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December 2011
Changed the cabin and engine air filters. $50
The passenger side window decided to stop dipping when the door was opened.  Also, the mechanism started to make noise when raising and lowering the window.  For those unfamiliar with these cars, when a door is opened the window lowers itself automatically by about a 3/8".  When closed it then moves back up for a nice streamlined seal.  When this isn't working properly you have to manually lower the window each time you open the door.  Prior to closing the door you can gently push the window down if it is not low enough.  After reading several posts on rennlist and renntech I determined that the window regulator need to be replaced.  Basically this is the mechanism that the window travels on when it is going up and down.  It does not include the motor.  Pictures and more details can be found here. passenger side part# 99654207604, KO Performance: $234

November 2011
While the car was in the shop for the clutch they noticed that the rubber driveshaft joint between the transmission and the driveshaft had some cracks.  They could not locate the part itself as their parts suppliers would only sell the entire driveshaft, and needed the car back right away, so since it wasn't too badly cracked I had them put it back together and I figured I could try to find the part since the entire driveshaft from Porsche was $500.  After trying a local driveshaft shop who couldn't get the part but found a BMW part that almost matched, I posting on rennlist.com and a member posted back that koperformance.com had the part. It had the exact same number on it as the part that came off my car. $75

October 2011, 75,000mi.
The feel of the clutch started to feel a bit odd.  I wasn't sure if it was me as I hadn't driven the car for several days, but when out running errands and not being able to get it into reverse to back out of a parking space, something was definately not right.  Getting into 1st was also a bit difficult. It seemed to be related to the clutch operation, but it ended up being the clutch itself.  Replaced parts from the shop invoice: Slave cylinder (it was starting to leak), Clutch kit, Flywheel and pressure plate bolts, Pilot Bearing, release guide, spring, and arm, crankshaft seal, ball socket bushing.  I also had the intermediate shaft bearing upgraded with a part by LN Engineering.  It seemed to be the prudent thing to do as everythign was apart, I will probably keep the car for a long time, and the failure of this bearing would be catastrophic to the motor, thus killing the value of the car. The oil and filter were also changed. Dietsch Werks $3,694.
Not sure why the old pressure plate would look like this:

The old IMS bearning had about 0.01" of play in it when you would push/pull on it.  I wouldn't say that is much of a precise measurement, but it was the best I could do with what I have.  Otherwise it looks fine and rolls smooth. It was completely filled with oil when I opened it up.

 

September 2011, 74,000mi.
Didn't have time to flush out the PS fluid, but became convinced that it's the issue with the odd sounds I sometimes get.  I pulled the cap off to check the fluid when the noise was occurring and the fluid was foamy.  I assume that means it's lost it's anti-foaming properties due to age.  The fluid still looks perfectly clear though unlike regular PS fluid or ATF that I'm used to that turns brown and smells burnt when it is bad. I pick up 3 liters of Pentosin CHS 11S from Lubrify.com, and I also got 3 liters of ATE to flush my brakes in the off season as I'm up on Porsche's recommended 2 year fluch cycle. $99

The Yokohama's in the rear are done, while the fronts are still just above the wear indicators so I'll keep those.  Pretty awesome lifespan for a sticky tire that warm up really fast.  After finding out it could be up to 3 months to get replacements (aftermath of the Japanese earthquake?) I did some research into comperable tires and got some Kuhmo XS's.  In fact it sounded like I got the last set of 315/18/30's in the US.  While the standard tire sizes for the car are 225/40R18 & 295/30R18, there are not many good choices out there in those sizes.  After finding a member on sixspeedonline that had bought Kuhmo XS's in 235/40/18 & 315/18/30 for his Turbo and reported the fix was good, comparing the dimensions listed on Tirerack, and knowing that Kuhmo's have a tendency to be less wider thanother brands, I figured they'd fit well. Delivered from Vulcan Tire, and mounted/balanced by Dietsch Werks $1,296.

August 2011
That odd sound from October came back.  Think I'll flush out the powersteering fluid.

July 2011, 70,000mi.
To even out the tire wear, and since the tires are directional, I had all the tires flipped on the wheels at Dietsch Werks.  I'm really impressed with the wear on the Yokohama's.  At this point in their life they get pretty greasy when hot however. $120.

April 2011, 67,000mi.
Changed the oil, oil filter. $100.

March 2011
Had the chrome cover on the passenger side headlight washer fly off while on the freeway.  When looking for a replacement I found that one cannot just buy the chrome cap.  To replace it I extended the washer by pulling it out gently with pliers, and held it in the extended position with vice grips.  Use a small flat head screwdriver to release the tab holding in the washer.  The new one just snaps in place. Photo on the right shows the old part.  Parts Heaven $52.

February 2011
Installed a B&M shifter (part #45135).  For such a well engineered car it always bugged me that the throws were rather long, and felt more precise and positively enganged. The install was easy as the instructions provided were excellent. $280.

Did my semi-annual inspection of the car.  It's an old habit from back when I open-tracked a '95 Mustang GT.  The only item I found was a nail in a tire, so I took the car over to Jon at Dietsch Werks and had them patch it and check the alignment since I had not done so with the new Yokohama tires.  $120.
    Front:
        Camber: -0.7/-0.7 deg.
        Toe: 0.08/0.08 deg.
    Rear:
        Camber: -1.5/-1.5 deg.
        Toe: 0.14/0.13

November 2010
Needed new wipers and though I'd try someting new and Tire Rack had a 2 for 1 offer: Valeo Ultimate wiper blades, 22" 900-22-1B.  Unlike a traditional wiper arm, these do a way with the metal arm and just rely on the blade for structural support. They certainly look more modern, and are probably more aerodynamic and therefore should produce less wind noise.

October 2010
Picked up an odd sound from the engine compartment.  Not sure what it was, as it didn't last long and has not reoccurred. Heat seems to be a factor,  and was dependend upon engine RPM, and not dependent upon the car moving. It went away after about a minute or two on each occassion. It didn't last long enough for me to park and pop the hood and maybe get a better idea of where it was coming from. I took the accessory belt off to check the idler pulleys, alternator, etc. and they all felt fine.

September 2010, 58,500mi.
Changed the oil, oil filter, engine air filter, cabin air filter, and accessory belt. $155. Oil analysis report.

Bought a new set of tires.  These went on my spare set of wheels and I tossed out the old Sumitomo's. Yokohama Advan Neova AD08's: 225/40R18 & 295/30R18, $1,122. The Pirelli's that have been on the car are wearing well on the front, however the rears are really going fast and now have only half the tread depth as the fronts.

May 2010
The only remote key fob that I have stopped working.  After replacing the battery it still didn't work.  Off to the dealer, Carlsen, and $176.89 later ($147.10 parts, $45 labor) I have a new key fob.  That was after a 15% discount for being in the GGR PCA (they sponsor the regions autocross series), and knowing a tech that works there.  Part #996-637-244-42 "Key Head W.C".

I started to randomly get the oil pressure sender fail notice in the instrument cluster again (see March 2008 below).  So I cleaned the electrical connections on the sending unit with some light sandpaper, put a dab of dielectric grease on the connectors, and that fixed it again.  I still think that most times when people experience this problem it's not the sending unit, it's just dirty connections as they are poorly insulated from the elements. So before you replace the sending unit just try cleaning the connections.  Here is another picture to show where it is (upper right bank of the motor):

April 2010, 54,000mi
With the bad rain we've been having I put the Pirelli's on the car as the Sumitomo's, particularily the fronts, had very little tread.  I've been happy with the tires, though they could use more meat on the outsides like the Pirelli's and Kuhmo SPT's I had previously.  For the money though they can't be beat.

March 2010

February 2010
Bought a set of 996 C4S wheels and Pirelli PZero tires (original, new car take offs). Yes the caps are wrong, but I can care less. I wasn't looking for an extra set of wheels, but I will be needing new tires soon, and I couldn't pass up this deal. $800

January 2010, 50,000mi


The vice grips were used to hold the allen wrench socket to get one bolt on the right rear coil pack where clearance was tight.

I had to bend the rear most end of the drivers side heat shield in order to remove it.

December 2009, 49,000mi.
How about a update on the tires?  The Sumitomo HTR ZIII's have proven to want more camber than the Kuhmo SPT's I had previously, as such they've worn out moreso on the outside.  I don't know if this is a function of the internal contrruction, or the fact that they do have less meat on the outside than the Kuhmo's.  Otherwise wear has been similar to the Kuhmo's, but the fronts are wearing faster that the rears, and are at the wear bars.  The rears have about double the thickness of the wear bars remaining. The Kuhmo's wore surprisingly evenly front to rear.

The clutch pedal was squeeking at the end of it's travel whenever it was depressed.  I used some lithium grease spray and lubed it where indicated.

October 2009
The sunroof gets me again! After getting out of the car after a drive home from work I found gasket laying across the roof about to completely fall off. It must have stuck to the sunroof itself and pulled itself off of it's mount on the car.  I cleaned it with some Turtlewax F21 (a plastic/rubber/leather protectant), and used a few dabs of superglue gel to refasten it.

September 2009
The sunroof partially stopped working. With one click of the open/close button it is supposed to close without having to continously hold the button down.  After a search on Rennlist I found the reset instructions and it's worked fine ever since. To reset the sunroof hold down the rocker switch in the "close" position for ten seconds with the sunroof already closed.

I also noticed the right rear air deflector, found in front of the rear tire, barely hanging on.  No sense replacing it since it'll just get hammered again.  Porsche really needs to make all these air deflectors under the car more durable. I don't think they know what roads are like here in America.

August 2009
Bought a set of jack pads.  I haven't been happy with how my jacks moved around on, and how the jackstands, fit the small jack points under the car.  I got these off Ebay for $50.  They are sold aluminum and fit into the jack point under the car and lock in with a half turn twist.

Installed v2.0 of an iPhone mount.  I tried other things and they would not hold the iPhone securely enough for the Dynolicious app to work accurately.  I removed the now useless CD storage unit (eject one slot, and yank it out) and attached a swiviling iPhone vent mount I bought sometime ago off Ebay.  I removed the parts on the back that would clip the mount to an air vent so that I could mount flush.  I'll try this out for a bit and see how it works before I install something to finish off the remaining hole. I'll need to find a small, black, rectangular box or something similar.  That way it would make for a second usable cubby.

July 2009
Having never owned a dark colored car before I started to notice ssmingly every single little paint chip.  On a recommendation from a fellow PCA member I bought a paint pen that matched the color of my car from Autovisuals.com.  The felt tip pen makes touch ups easy, and to my surprise it has yet to clog up, which I thought would happen after a couple uses.

The upper passenger side radiator hose started leaking where it joins the radiator, just like the lower hose on this same radiator did a few months ago.  I took it apart, cleaned it, and put it back together, but it still leaked.  I replaced the hose and it seems fine (part # 996.106.621.78, $32 at the dealer).  Same MO as with the lower hose. Lesson learned is that when you replace a radiator, replace the hoses, as the old ones won't reseal well.  This would only apply to the cars with the hoses with the rubber 'O' rings - 996 4S & Turbos.  The parts counter mentioned that the new 997's have these 'O' ring type connection all over the car.  Replacing these hoses was easy.  Removing the tire and inner fenderwell cover is how you get to the hoses, and is simple with basic tools.  I bleed the cooling system by refilling the coolent tank, putting the cap back on, positioning the metal ring on top of the bleed valve to hold the valve open (the black thing on top of the coolent tank) and running the car at idle. Monitor the temp via the dash gauge, monitor the coolent level in the tank, and wait for the coolent to get hot and flow through the system (you can tell by carefully feeling the hoses at the front of the car).  Once it's hot I gave it a spin around the block, and then let it cool down.  Top off the coolent tank when cool and reposition the ring on the bleed valve.  Check the coolent level the next time it cools down and top off if necessary. Since so little coolent was lost in changing this hose I used distilled water to top off the system.

I put together a basic tool kit for the car (and my 4Runner) for when I go on long trips. It's made out of various tools I either had duplicates of or tools I got at Harbor Freight. ~$50.

April 2009, 42,000 miles
Changed the oil and filter, cabin and engine filters; ~$150 for the oil (9qts Redline 5-40) and filters.
    Part numbers:
        Oil: Mahle 996-107-225-53 (OX128/1D)
        Air: Hengst E457L
        Cabin: E951LC (carbon)

I sent off an oil sample to Blackstone to see how the oil and filtration is doing and they suggested running the oil for another 2,000 miles before changing it (for a total of 9,000 miles) since my results were so good.  As such I'll keep running the Redline eventhough it's not on Porsche's approved oil list (oh the horror!), and Mahle filters.  After having a K&N on my old Mustang GT race car, and seeing how that resulted in higher silica readings, I'm convinced paper filters are the way to go unless you are racing for money. I also replaced the oil pan drain plug with one that has a magnet in it.  I got it on Ebay from maxspeed-motorsports.

After 15,000 miles the Kuhmo SPT's were practically bald.  Pretty damn good wear considering my driving.  Goes to show what a good alignment, and the proper tire presures can do.  I was going to get another set of the Kuhmo's but after reading about the Sumitomo HTR Z III's I decided to try them out as they sounded a bit stickier and they were in the same price range as the Kuhmo's.  I don't see any point to spending $600 more for a Porsche N rated tire that may be marginally stickier unless a sponsor pays me the difference.  Tires from Tire Rack were $652 shipped.  Mounting, balancing, new valve stems, and alignment: $398.   The new alignment specifications are:
    Front:
        Caster: 7.8 deg.
        Camber: -0.7 deg.
        Toe: 1/32" each side, for 1/16" total.
    Rear:
        Camber: -1.2 deg.
        Toe: 1/16" each side for 3/32" total. (it doesn't add up but that's what the sheet says).

Lastly the front, lower, passenger side radiator hose started leaking slightly.  This hose seemed fine after the incident last year, but alas it was not.  This hose has a connection to the radiator that I had never seen before.  I tried cleaning off the connection and lubing the O ring with maring grease, but after driving it around it still leaked.

Since it could be leaking from either the O ring or from where the hose is swedged onto the metal fitting I figured a new hose would be a better way to go.  After having NAPA get me a new hose I discovered that the 4S has a different hose than the base 996, which they ultimately couldn't get me.  The dealer was able to get me one the next day (part# 996-106-626-77) for $34, same price as what NAPA charged for the wrong hose. I have to credit Porsche with the ability to get parts to us so fast, particularily impressive as Porsche is a small auto manufacturer.  I've had friends wait weeks for basic parts from other exotic car manufacturers.  I also got a gallon of Porsche antifreeze from the dealer, $31.  I didn't need much of the new stuff as I reused what came out when I removed the hose since the coolent had been replaced last year.  I filtered it with an clean, old T-shirt.

March 2009, 41,000 miles
On a rainy weekend with not much to do I installed a dash mounted switch to raise and lower the spoiler.  Since there is a switch under the dash by the fuse box this is redundant, but more convenient.  I like to pop it up for auto-x runs, although I doubt it does anything, it ain't gonna hurt.  The car photographs better with it up anyway. Some wires, a switch, in my case part #996.613.155.10.A05, is all that's needed.  Instructions on how to do this install can be found here.  Cost was about $40 for the everything.

January 2009, 39,000 miles
The transmission had begun to get difficult to shift into 1st and 2nd when cold.  I figured that some new fluid may help, and considering that I beat on the car pretty good I figured I'd change the transmission fluid, and while I was at it change the differential fluid.  You need 2 quarts for the differential, and 4 quarts for the transmission.  I contacted Redline and they told me to use 75-140 in the dif and 75-140NS in the tranny.  With basic tools it is easy to change the fluids.  To fill the transmission, I ran a hose through the engine compartment to the fill hole on the tranny and filled it that way.  Use a old plasitc grocery bag or something similar to keep the inevitable overflow off the crossbrace that is directly below the fill hole.  This makes cleanup easy.  Was changing the fluid necessary?  No, not really, as the fluid came out cleaner than any car I've owned with similar mileage.  It didn't change the cold shift quality.  If I let the car warm up a bit longer on cold mornings it shifts fine.  If your car is a daily driver I'd leave the fluid alone until the factory recommended change interval.  $57.

December 2008, 38,000 miles
Winter, and that means new wipers.  Easy enough as the local parts house had them in stock. ANCO part #91-22. $21.

September 2008, 34,000 miles
Changed the oil and filter; $130 for the oil (9qts Redline 5-40) and filter (Mahle). Out of curiosity I cut open the filter and didn't see anything.  It's easy to do.  once you remove the material at one end ( I used a screwdriver) you can easily cut it with some tough sissors. The black plastic thing just comes right out.

I also installed a Dension 500 so that I could hook up my iPhone to the stereo.  In 2003 Porsche's started using a fiber optic system for the stereo system, which makes this sort of upgrade a hell of a lot more expensive.  After trolling the various internet forums this seemed like the only way to go.  Unfortunately there are no real comprehensive instructions to install this thing, but between the instructions provided, and reading various posts, I got it installed.  Use "Installation Type 3A" in the instruction manual.  While everyone online has seemed to install it in the trunk, I installed it behind and under the radio.  This seemed easier to me, and there is plenty of room for the unit.  You do have to pull the radio however, but one can get the keys to do this on Ebay for a few $.  I tapped into the optics here (red circle).  The green circle is the wiring loom where I tapped into the + and -. Gettin my mind wrapped around the whole fiber optic situation took awhile, but it's not that big a deal after all, just different.

After tapping into the optics:

I had a bit of difficulty in that my car is an early 2003 model, which used different fiber optics than cars build since then.  Again, this is not readily apparent in the literature, so I was a buit frustrated.  I however got it to work fine, at least so far.  There is a special adapter available, but I took apart the stock radio connector (and completely pull out the blue lock), and managed to get both optic cable into the connector.  The blue lock needed a bit of persuation with a pair of pliers to go back in however.

In my opinion the retailer (bumperplugs.com) could gain many more sales if a dedicated set of instrutions was provided to each year and make of car, and for each type of stereo system. It seems to me that a lot of people won't attempt the installation due to the lack of clear instructions. Of course you could take it to a professional installer, but make sure they know fiber optics and that they have done this type of installation before.

Lastly, since my car did not already have a CD changer installed, I had to take the car to the dealer to have the stereo reprogrammed to think there is a CD changer installed, as the Dension unit takes the place of a CD changer.  The stereo will not work otherwise.  Mine stereo constantly cycled on and off while the car was on until the deck was reprogrammed.

July 2008
Right radiator was replaced due to cracking of the lower hose mount.  I hit a traffic cone (or two), apparently exactly the wrong way. The shop says they've seen this occassionally. My preventative measures can be seen here.

I built a camera mount that bolts onto where the rear seat pins (for lack of a better term) hold the rear seats up. Parts needed:


Painted and installed:

June 2008    30,000 miles
Shift Light Installed.  I really got used to having a shift light on my old track car and really missed it.  Especially since this car revs so fast and 1st and 2nd gears go by so fast. I really wanted a sequential multi light shift light as opposed to the single light one I had before (MSD).  This way I have a good idea of where I am in the RPM range and can better anticipate when to shift.  After searching around the various enthusiast forums I found one by the Austrailian company Ecliptech.  After ordering I got it in four days.  Ain't that amazing!  And the shipping was reasonable too.  I read several threads on Renntech about where to find the appropriate wires, and find out how to take the instrument cluster apart.  It took me an afternoon as I never had taked apart the dash on a Porsche before, and I really took my time.  Everything is nicely engineered and easily went back together, unlike other cars I've worked on where things never seem to want to go back together easily and look the same as when you first took it apart.

I should have taken more photos, but on the left you can see the aluminum 'T' I made.  You can't see it well in the second photo, but the top half of the 'T' is bent down thus allowing the shift light to have an attachment surface.  The photo on the right shows the existing gap in the gauge trim that has been slightly enlarged so that the aluminum 'T' I made would have clearance to pass through.  I did not glue the 'T' to anything as the tight fit between the gauge trim and the top dash piece.  I did stick the 'T' under the existing padding.  I forgot to take another photo to show this, but about an inch over from the existing slot that is shown in the photo on the right, I cut a similar slot, but smaller, for the shift light wiring.

Wiring: 3 wires on the shift light, black, black/red, black/blue.

I have it set so that the first light comes on at 5,000rpm.  At 6,500rpm, after the lights have all come on, they all flash.  I figure this also gives me enough time to do something before hitting the rev limit.

May 2008    29,000miles
After driving for an hour in the worst traffic jam I can remember, on an exceptionally hot day, I noticed a loud noise from the engine compartment that was a cross between a bearing grinding away and a gearbox loaded with rocks.  After removing the accessory belt I found that the lower most idler pulley did not turn as freely as the others.  Seemed strange that this little thing could cause such a horrible racket, but once I replaced it the engine is quieter than ever.  The part number on the pulley was 996.102.120.55, however the parts counter at the dealer said that was superceeded by 997.102.119.00.  The new part is not metal (except for the bearing part), and much, much lighter.  It bolted on like the original and dimensionally was the same for the most part. $100.57 at the dealer counter, and I got it the next day.  I could have got it cheaper at Sunset (in Portland), but I wanted to get the car running again ASAP.

March 2008    26,000 miles
Car came with brand new Kuhmo SPT tires.  I had my alignment shop put their recommended alignment on it based on my driving.  I also changed the oil & oil filter, put the air filter back to stock (the proir owner put a K&N on it) with new filter, replaced cabin filter.  From my experience the minor gains, if any, of K&N filters are not worth the poor filtering abilities.  $240 for the alignment, $137 for oil (Redline 5-40) and filters (Mahle).

Alignment specifications (figures are the same left and right and taken directly from the report my shop gave me):
    Front
        Caster: 8.0 deg.
        Camber: -0.5 deg.
        Toe: 1/32" each side, for 1/16" total.
    Rear
        Camber: -1.0
        Toe: 1/16" each side for 3/32" total. (it doesn't add up but that's what the sheet says)

    Update (July 2008, 31,000mi.): after 5,000mi the tire wear has been perfect, so the shop hit the specs just right

Around this time the oil pressure gauge would randomly drop to zero for a few seconds, then come back to normal.  After having a minor stroke the first time it happened, I figured that since the engine was running fine that it must be some kind of electrical issue.  After searching the Porsche message boards I found several people that had issues with the oil pressure sending unit (mounted on the upper right side of the motor), and the electrical connections to the sending unit.  I cleaned the electrical connections and put some dielectric grease on them and it has been fine ever since.  The connections do not have any protection from the elements, which is rather surprising.  I seriously doubt that people who have been told by service tech's that they needed to replace the unit really needed to.  Best to first clean the connections and see if that takes care of it.  Here is where the sending unit is located:


X: spark plug coil packs, view from wheel well, with spark plug heat shield removed.
________________________________________________

After owning much less exotic cars I got myself a 2003 Porsche Carrera 4S in mid 2008.  After a lot of research it seemed like this car could be a decent dual use vehicle (daily driver and something to take to enthusiast events) and relatively reasonable to maintain, which is contrary to non owners feelings about the marque (at least that was my feeling). We'll see.  Below is a log of maintence and service I have had to perform in an effort to hopefully show that these cars are not bad to own and be driven regularily.  On my mixed commute, mostly highway though, mpg has been around 23.5, which ain't bad. It's 1mpg better than my previous daily driver, a 2001 Mustang Cobra, so I'm not complaining.

What is a 4S, and don't all Porsches pretty much look all the same?  pretty much...Usually referred to as a 911, Porsche calls it a 996, but the only designation on it is "Carrera 4S".  The 4S has the wider body of the Turbo and GT2 models, but has the base n/a motor.  This is as opposed to the base 996 model and GT3, which use the narrow body.  It gets more confusing with the next generation, the 997.  So, over the regular model my 4S has the bigger Turbo brakes, the firmer and lower Turbo suspension, AWD like the Turbo, the Turbo front bumper, the bigger Turbo radiators (but no center radiator), a composite rear deck lid, the spoiler apparently pops up higher over the base model, and it has as standard equipment a  bunch of the things that would have been options on the base model. A good reference for all things 996 is "Porsche 996, The Essential Companion" by Adrian Streather. Excellence magazine also reviewed the 996 C4S in issues 109 and 116.

Specifications from the owners manual, my cars window sticker

Porsche Manuals, Porsche Parts Diagrams, Porsche Option Decoder, Maintenance Schedule

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