- Magnetic number panels from Solotime
- Autometer mechanical Oil Pres., Oil Temp, Water Temp. I went mechanical as opposed to electrical as there will never be any question as to the accuracy. I moved the HVAC controls and radio down. It was not difficult to do, though the new slot for the HVAC controls needed to made slightly larger with a file. This will be self explainatory when you start removing things, but there is a piece of plastic attached to the bottom of the radio that holds it in place. Remove it and attach it to the top of the radio. Now it'll have support when you reinstall it in the lower slot. Seems like Ford planned for this type of installation.
- Air Dam from some mid size GM truck (from salvage yard). My neighbor got an airdam off a Ranger for his '89LX and I saw this and it was about the same size so for $10 I figured it was worth a shot at making it work. It actually fit a lot better than the Ranger piece would have. I had to remove 1" from the bottom as it hung down too far, which makes it a bit more flexible, but since it scrapes on some driveway entrances that's a good thing. To minimize the flexibility in the area that counts, directly below the radiator, I reinforced it with a piece of 1" piece of angle aluminum pop rivited along the center section just below the radiator. Seems to keep the car cooler at a cruise, and the car actually feels better at high speed when going over rises (like the rise on the straight at Laguna prior to T1).
- Brake ducts. I got a pair of fog light delete plates (what non-fog light cars have) from Velocity Mustang and cut a rectangular hole, and attached a rain gutter 3" rectangular to circular adapter. Attached 3" dia. high-temp. hose from AFCO, ran it to the rotor, and attached it via a mount I made. See the Suspension & Chassis page for detail on that.
Why painters tape isn't a good idea, before:
